“The water looks like blue Gatorade.” Tay
That might sound really funny to start off this blog post but let me tell you when my sister-in-law said it looked like the blue Gatorade it couldn’t have been more accurate. The ocean alone is reason enough that I will go back time and time again… it is definitely the clearest water I have ever swam in, and the beaches were absolutely stunning, this blog post will focus on the highlights of the island of Hvar.
The island can be reached via ferry either from Dubrovnik, which is about 3 1/2 hours on a catamaran ferry, or via Split where it is only an hour, also on a catamaran ferry.
I was originally between the islands of Hvar and Bol but after some research Hvar was the choice simply because it seemed more developed for accommodations and dining, and we had planned 5 nights on the island, so I thought a larger variety was better.
Hvar is great because you can explore without a car, with a car or with bicycles. Let’s just say we did all three…not part of the plan. We rented e-bikes from Antonio Rental right in downtown Hvar and while the plan was to use e-bikes for all 5 days, let’s just say my day 1 didn’t go as planned (insert crying emoji face). I was trying to make it up a super steep hill when a car was coming up behind me and I fell into rusty barbed wire. Kev said he watched me fall in slow motion and while he was concerned, he was also laughing because he didn’t know what was happening (my foot was on the ground despite my clumsiness). Let’s just say after that we upgraded to a smart car.
I’d say whether e-bikes or car, you can definitely see the whole island (of course the e-bikes will take a little longer to reach destinations). My favorite spots to visit with either method of transportation are:
Dubovica Beach – Absolutely our favorite beach! Secluded beaches come at the cost of having to walk down a somewhat steep, rocky dirt path for 15 minutes before reaching (fyi) but completely and utterly worth it. We visited twice we loved it so much and it is truly picturesque! It is a large pebble beach surrounded by pine trees for a shaded option with crystal clear water. I would swim all the way out to the buoys and still be able to see all the way down! It is pretty secluded so do not expect much phone service if any but there is a little beach bar serving food and beverages.
Advice: Pack sandals or water shoes because we learned the beaches with super clean water are where you will find sea urchins and you don’t want to find oneself stepping on one. Good thing is the water is so clear you can definitely see them. I wore hiking sandals (chacos) for the water and for the rocky walk but if you don’t own a pair, I recommend wearing sneakers and carrying the water shoes.
Zarace Beach – Let’s start with noting this is the beach I ate it on the e-bike, so whether your take a bike or car, my advice would be to park at the top near the main road and walk down the steep and narrow road to the beach. Zarace also requires you to take steep stairs to the very bottom, but this was the quietest beach we visited. Perhaps a little rockier and a little more wave but just as magical! If you like extra quiet beaches this is definitely the right fit!
Milna Beach – Located in the tiny town of Milna just outside of Hvar. This is not as clear as some of the others but still beautiful and easier to reach if steep paths aren’t your thing. You can rent day beds here and there are a few restaurants and bars in the town for a nice lunch break! Some days we started at one of the first two secluded beaches and then moved to Milna for lunch and a little more sun!
Stari Grad – or “old town” is about a thirty-minute car ride from Hvar and is one of the oldest towns in Europe. We went for lunch and thought the town was so quaint and quiet and definitely worth a visit. It was charming to walk along the promenade looking at all the small fishing boats. There are beaches nearby if you want to spend a full day closer to Stari Grad.
Now let’s jump to the awesome options for those who do not wish to drive or bike while vacationing. There are many beach options with beach clubs within walking distance to downtown Hvar in both directions.
Pokonji Dol Beach – On the last day we didn’t have a car, so we walked to Pokonji Dol Beach (25 minutes by foot). We were told it was one of the best beaches to reach by foot…the crowds insinuated that everyone got the same message. The water is super blue and calm! Here you can bring a towel or rent beach chairs and an umbrella but definitely come early. There are two restaurants for food and beverages directly next to the beach which is great if you don’t want to carry a lot for the walk.
Pakleni Island – WOW! Just WOW! We did a full day private boat tour and visited the Pakleni Islands and they were absolutely stunning! A great option for those staying in Hvar town because water taxis run every hour starting at 10am to take you to the various islands. We were told each island is different whether you want party vibes or relaxation. My personal favorite was Marinkovac Island (second biggest) with Mlini beach, Tri Grede Bay and Carpe Diem beach! The water on the islands was the bluest I have ever seen, absolutely breathtaking!
Hopefully this blog puts Hvar on the books for your future trips! It is a great spot to relax or party…choice is yours!